What Is It Going To Be An Indoor Or An Outdoor Cat?

by: Judy Jantzen

Is your cat going to be an indoor cat or outdoor cat or an indoor cat with outdoor access? It is a big decision to make for the well being of your cat and your sanity.

You need to think carefully about the positives and negatives before deciding which way to go. Some things to consider are the dangers to your cat from other animals and mean humans. Fleas, ticks, scorpions, snakes, coyotes, rabies, etc. and do not forget annoyed neighbors.

Cats can be happy indoors, if you see to their needs. Any window with a birdfeeder and bird bath in the view can provide hours of pleasure for your cat and satisfy their stalking and hunting instincts. Open the window on nice days with a secure screen in place. A handful of chemical free grass will supply their need for green grass to eat. We keep a special patch to pick from. In the Winter months we plant a big pot of rye grass.

We lived on a 41 feet sail boat for ten years with two cats. For 5 of those years we were on a mooring and for the other five we were at a dock. We trained both cats to wear a harness when we were under way and when we were going to come into a dock. Then they quickly accepted the idea of walking on a lease, so that they could investigate their new environment. They played on the deck and went up and down stairs, dozens of times a day.

Later when we moved into a house, we continued to walk them on the lease. One cat even got to the point that we could carry him down the block and put him down. Then he would walk home on his own. He did not like to walk away from home, only the return trip. Being accepting of walking on a lease is also great for traveling purposes. It is a safe way to have your cat be outside.

Now we have two rescued cats who want nothing to do with the outdoors.They had enough fearful experiences outside. They both enjoy watching the birds from inside the patio doors, but they prefer their food in a food bowl. Just hearing a neighbors dog bark or seeing one from a window can freak them out and send them running for their safe hiding place.

We live in SE Arizona and outside cats do not last too long with coyotes, snakes, scorpions, rabies and other terrifying things.

Cats with outdoor access can treat you to fleas and ticks. They can bring you special gifts of a dead mouse or bird. They can be hurt by another cat, dog or other animals. Chase the wrong thing and it could be the last thing the cat does chase. But they do have the freedom to roam and upset the neighbors by using a flower bed as a litter box or hunting birds in the neighbors yard. Just because you think they are adorable, does not mean that others do.

The choice to declaw or not is a big and very important decision. I would suggest that you do a search and read the available information and discuss it with your vet, to make an informed decision.

As you can see the choice of an indoor cat or an outdoor cat affects not only you and your cat but your entire neighborhood so think long and hard before you make your decision. Your neighbors will appreciate your consideration.



About The Author

Judy Jantzen: http://www.authorjudyjantzen.com - My husband and I have owned cats for the past 25 years.

For more fabulous cat articles and some of the finest cat goodies available anywhere including cat food bowls, cat harness, cat leashes and cat training e-books check out our web site at: http://www.catgoodiesfinder.com

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Clues to Detecting Fluffy and Fido's Painful Secrets

To protect themselves from predators, animals naturally hide their pain. Your pet may be suffering even though he isn’t showing obvious signs. Advancements in veterinary science have decoded subtle telltale signs of animal distress. Observing your pet’s behavior is vital to managing his or her pain. How well do you know your pet? Use these five clues from the American Animal Hospital Association (AAHA) to help you understand your pet’s body language.

Clue 1—Abnormal chewing habits

If your pet is showing abnormal chewing habits, such as dropping its food or chewing on one side of the mouth, it may have a dental disorder or a mouth tumor. Additional signs may include weight loss, bad breath or excessive face rubbing. Routine dental checkups are important to prevent and treat dental disorders and related pain.

Clue 2—Drastic weight gain or loss


Continued here: http://healthypet.com/library_view.aspx?ID=200&sid=1

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Timid Cats

Larry Chamberlain

Nervous cats hide from people, they do not readily present themselves for petting, and may seem downright scared of you.

Probably, this was not exactly what you had in mind when you decided to get yourself a pet. So, is it at all possible for nervous cats to overcome their timidity and learn to trust you? The answer is yes, but you will need patience, patience, and patience.
It is usual for a kitten to be cautious and timid for the first week or so in its new home, but some kitties remain nervous of you no matter how loving and caring you are to them. Kittens that spent the first weeks of their life in the company of humans and other pets, along with the associated sounds and smells, are far less likely to be nervous cats. They will accept sharing their living space with humans more readily, and be more likely to accept petting. Your cat may have had a nasty experience before coming to your home, and is naturally apprehensive of a reoccurrence.

One way to gradually get a nervous cat used to petting is to gently wrap your pet in a thick towel, to prevent it from scratching you, and gently stroking its head. Talk to your cat
softly as you do so, and only use a light grip never hold your cat extremely tight. Set aside a time each day to perform this bonding ritual and your shy cat may grow to trust you enough to
stroke it without the towel, remember patience pays.

Great results have been obtained by owners of nervous cats by using a pet crate. Cover the sides of the crate with card or a blanket so that your cat can see through the front but still feels protected. Put the litter tray in the crate and perhaps your cats favorite toy. Start by using the crate in a room that humans are not using, but from where your cat can hear the sounds
of the house. Then, move to a place where the humans of the house can be seen carrying on their normal activity, talk to your pet soothingly. Gradually your cat may learn that there is no threat
to it from you, and you may achieve enjoying your cat's company outside the crate without any sign of nervousness.

Bribery can often work wonders with nervous cats. Try a offering a tempting healthy treat, if your cat is hungry enough to overcome its fear and stay still to eat its treat, stroke it gently, don't make sudden movements! You may have to persevere, but often your pet will eventually accept and enjoy your petting.

Never lose patience, and remember that your nervous cat is not rejecting you, it is just an in built protective reaction to something that has given kitty cause to be wary of humans. Love
and perseverance will often win the day, and you will be rewarded by your cat's affection.

Larry Chamberlain is a lifelong cat lover and webmaster of http://www.best-cat-art.com Cat art posters, art prints, cat calendars and cat collectibles. Great cat gifts for yourself or your cat loving friends

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What to do about Cat Scratching the Furniture!

Nani, a regular reader asked me about her kitty Kaline's scratching obsession with the loveseat and as it happens I do have a couple of suggestions. First, apply a layer of double sticky tape or bitter apple spray to the area you don't want Kaline to scratch. I've never personally used the bitter apple spray I've just heard it works. I KNOW the double sticky tape works. Tin foil works as well. Cats do NOT like the feel of tape/foil on their paws and will not sharpen their claws on something unpleasant to them. Its a texture thing. Foil has no texture and tape is obviously sticky. Kitties LOVE things with texture. You can also use a Kitty Off spray (I found this at Petco). It does have a bit of a nasty odor until it dries which is just minutes but the downside is you have to keep re-applying it every day until the habit is broken. Usually several weeks. Kitties also do not like citrus odors. Lemon scented sprays, popourri or even orange peels applied to the area will also help deter Kaline.

You will also need to remove her scent. There are scent glands in her face as well as her paws that help her mark her territory so use a pet odor remover to remove her smell from that spot. Natures Miracle products come to mind on that one.


Put the post where she goes to scratch. Scratching is a territorial behavior usually done in a "family area". It shows other people and animals that this is her territory and BACK OFF! There are only 3 rooms in my home that do not have a scratching post! Spray your scratching post with kitty "feel good" pheramones like Feliway brand. You could also use catnip either the spray or just rub it on. I know some cats just aren't into catnip so Feliway would be a good alternative. Personally, I would use both. Attach toys to the post. The idea is to send a clear message to Kaline that this is hers and the loveseat is not and to make the post irresistable to her.

If all else fails a squirt bottle of water when catching her in the act will also get the message across.

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Cat Claw Survival Solutions To The Rescue!

By Romi Matsushita

Cats can be ill tempered and mean on their worst days, but even the most annoying problems have a remedy somewhere. If your cat is clawing your furniture, your carpet, and your legs with the same ferocity, understanding the how and why behind the behavior can help you redirect your feline friend’s clawing instinct to be expressed in less destructive ways.

So why IS your cat clawing everything in sight?

Here’s the jawdropper: a cat’s claws never stop growing. Let me repeat that: They NEVER stop growing. When I found that out, a big light went off in my head. Just like a pet hamster that constantly needs to knaw on wood to keep their teeth from growing too long, what cats are actually doing when they sharpen their claws is removing the outermost layer of their claws. O.K. Kitty Cat, we finally get it!

So what to do? What to do?

The first thought bubble that forms is to scoop kitty up for a little declawing action at the nearest vet’s office. But before you take such a drastic step, keep in mind that once those claws are gone, they’re GONE. Take away those claws, and you’re taking away your pet’s primary form of defense. Even if you have an indoor cat like I do, chances are, sooner or later, a window of opportunity is going to open up just long enough for your cat to slip outside and be vulnerable to attacks from other animals and people.

O.K. So now you know why your cat is actually using you as a scratching post. Let’s move away from the word “using”. In a way, it’s kind of flattering. That doesn’t make it hurt any less. Let’s get your cat to branch out. It’s time to get a REAL scratching post, so that your pet can get into the habit of using it instead of YOU, whenever those claw sharpening impulses may strike.

So how do we get kitty to break her bad habits and start to use the proper place where she can scratch to her heart’s content?

The answer lies in you.


That is of course, IF you are your cat’s favorite person in the family.

If so, then try hanging an article of clothing that belongs to you on your virgin scratching post. The idea is to make the area smell familiar. A day or two should be enough for your cat to become accustomed to its’new scratching outlet.

Don’t want to part with something from your wardrobe? Time to get a little sneakier then. Catnip can be your secret weapon. Sprinkle catnip over the scratching post and watch what happens. This one may be even worth breaking out the video camera for.

This next option sounds a little weird, but believe me, it WORKS!

Try sprinkling the post area with powdered chicken bouillon. The idea is to get the cat to feel friendly enough toward the scratching post to attack it.

While your cat is making the transition to a designated area for scratching, there are several ways to make your cat’s favorite scratching areas a lot less attractive. This will help ease the transition from the old spots to the new.

Sprinkle fresh lemon juice over them. Cover or wrap the areas in aluminum foil. Remember what it felt like when your fingernails went down the chalkboard? Ever try it again? Cats will experience the same thing and be deterred from using the areas. Finally, clean the areas well to eradicate any cat odor. This will go a long way toward removing the aura of familiarity that creates the habit of using the space. Also, just keep the doors closed to make those places inaccessible to the cat.

Now that you know more about the how and why of your cat’s clawing instinct and behavior, take these simple steps and you’ll soon see a resolution to the cat clawing issues in your household. With a little time and patience, your cat’s claw sharpening activities should be limited to its’favorite spot: the scratching post!

About the Author: Romi Matsushita is a Cat Claw Survivor who has the scars to prove it. Learn more reasons your cat’s claws come out at: http://www.cat-advisors-online.com

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Why Does My Cat Bite My Hand When I Stroke Her?

by Larry Chamberlain
http://www.best-cat-art.com/

You have settled into your favorite armchair, perhaps reading the final chapters of a gripping novel. Suddenly you are aware of the imploring
stare of your cat sitting at your feet. You invite her onto your lap. Gently you begin to stroke her and your cat signals her appreciation with an audible purr.

One hand holding your book the other hand continuing to pet your mouser, you again get lost in your novel. All is well in the world with you and with your cat.

Suddenly your cat bites your hand!

Why did kitty do that? Why did she bite the hand that strokes her?

The experts don't agree on exactly why it is that some cats enjoy being petted, but end up biting. One thing that they do agree on is that when kitty bites at you, it's a sure sign that she has decided that she's had enough stroking.

Cats differ in the amount of petting they will accept, and not all cats respond by biting when they have had enough. Some cats simply jump from your lap and saunter off to investigate interests anew. But many cats will nip you and your animal is one of them.

Could you have known that a bite was on its way? Yes, there are often signs that cats give before biting. And, if you had not been so wrapped up in reading your novel, you may have paid heed to your little pets warning.

If kitty's tail begins to twitch, in a rolling flick, watch out! She's getting ready to chomp at your hand.

If your cats ears start turning towards the back of her head, or flatten against her head, that's a warning a bite is coming.

If your cat suddenly becomes restless, or stiffens and stares at your hand, she could be about to nip you.

If you noticed any of these signals, simply stop stroking your cat. Your pet will either stay on your lap or jump down and walk off, whichever happens you don't get bitten.

What you should not do is punish your cat for biting your hand. That simply does not work. Cats are more likely to identify the punishment with you rather than with their bad cat behavior. If you miss a warning sign and kitty manages to get her jaws around your hand, try to resist the temptation to pull your hand away or push your cat away. Simply freeze. Chances are that your cat will not sink her teeth in, she has got her message across, and you have stopped petting her.

If you try and push your cat away it is likely that she will fight with your hand resulting in skin punctures for you. (An animal bite can become infected quite easily, if your cat does draw blood clean up the wound scrupulously and seek the advice of your doctor.)

Why do some cats behave in this aggressive way? The degree of tolerance to petting may be genetic, or it may be learned behavior. If when your cat was a kitten you allowed her to chew on your hand in play, she learned that biting human hands was an OK thing to do. So, when she
feels that she has had enough stroking (she's the boss remember,) she will bite at your hand to let you know - if you ignore her warning signals.

Some experts recommend the use of healthy tidbits, as a reward, in order to increase the time your cat will tolerate stroking. At the first warning signal offer kitty a treat, continue to stroke your cat
gently for a time and offer her another reward. It is said that your cat will learn to connect petting with the tidbits and may, with patience, allow you to pet her for longer periods.

Larry Chamberlain lives in London, England, and has had a lifelong fascination with domestic cats. His web site http://www.best-cat-art.com provides information about all that is best in cat art. Also
pages about cat and kitten care and information on cat breeds and types.

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From: CatsPlay.com Cat Furniture

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Holistic Cat Food Vs Grocery Store Brands

By Shannon Hutcheson

Don't confuse Holistic with Organic. There is a distinction. Holistic means management of foods in an ecological manner above and beyond going back to simpler, more natural methodology. Organically managed food basically means the land and resources are used in a more natural manner (grain fed, no additives or pesticides etc). One might say Holistic is a way of life, while organic is just a better diet. Either is much better than the typical grocery store brands (like Iams which also makes Eukaneuba, or Friskies and Whiskas).

When you put the word Organic on human food, you can pretty much guarantee double the price. Of course things will vary for different countries. The same can apply to holistic pet foods. Some are quite expensive, but when you read further you may see why I personally feel that anything holistic rather than a grocery store brand is better. You do get what you pay for after all.

Sure, some kitties will not eat anything BUT those low grade grocery store foods full of fillers. I have heard the argument that "My mom's cat ate BrandX cat food for years and never had problems" many, many times. Usually about animals that have long since passed on. Think on it though, 10-20 years ago we did not have nearly as much toxin in our food, water and even the very air we breathe. Today, however, our bodies are being bombarded with so innumerable things that break down and try to destroy our natural immune systems. It becomes increasingly important that we ensure that the food that sustains us is as good as it can be. AND be free of pesticides, additives and preservatives and all the other toxic man-made things that we really don't even need. The same applies to our pets. That pet food so and so's mom's cat ate 10-20 years ago was fed to a cat that was intrinsically healthier because it lived in a healthier atmosphere to begin with.

Our pets can't speak for themselves. And certainly, as you may know, the pet food industry sure hasn't been speaking for our pets either. The pet food industry has been feeding (no pun intended) crap to our pets, to the media and therefor to us, the consumers, for decades! Pet food is not nearly as regulated as human food. Until last year, specifically with the pet food scare we had in 2007. The media put a huge spotlight on the pet food industry because of the pet food recalls last year.

It's about time the pet food manufacturers were held accountable for the quality of their food and how it is produced! But did YOU know what is really in pet food?

Let me introduce you to some of the holistic cat foods my cats have tried. Merrick's, Chicken Soup for the Cat Lover's Soul, Natural Balance and Nutro. We now feed Wellness Core exclusively because of its quality at a reasonable price and, quite frankly, its availability at our local pet store.

You surely recognize some of these brands. Next time you are at the pet store, compare any of the holistic pet foods to Whiskas or Iams, or even Royal Canin and Science Diet. What you are looking for is an absence of by-products and any type of wheat, corn or corn meal. Cats are obligate (true) carnivores, yet many commercial pet foods are composed primarily of low-cost grains. These grains are fillers and are not necessary to the diet of your cat at all. If you see corn or wheat or corn meal in the first 5 ingredients, find another cat food. It's no different than feeding your cat cereal.

*Note that even some of the prescription grade Science Diet has by-product in it!

Meat and poultry by-products are the unrendered parts of the animal left over after slaughter; everything deemed unfit for human consumption. In cattle and sheep, this includes the brain, liver, kidneys, spleen, lungs, blood, bones, fatty tissue, stomachs and intestines. The items on this list that would normally be consumed by humans, such as the liver, would have to be diseased or contaminated before they could be designated for pet food. Poultry by-products include heads, feet, intestines, undeveloped eggs, chicken feathers and egg shells.

Why then, one may wonder, will pets even eat such food? After that slurry pot of "meat" is processed, it is bound with wheat or grains. Then it is basted in fat. The pet smells this glorious kibble basted in fat. No wonder he/she will eat it.

The number one reason why I will always feed holistic is because the cats absorb MORE of the good stuff that is in the food. They have improved skin and coat, increased vitality and increased energy, and they pass less stool - much less stinky stool at that!

An even more interesting and 'pure' holistic food the cats have tried and liked is Wysong. Wsyong's processing methods are what really interested me though.

Since about 1979. Dr. Wysong began with clinical and surgical inventions, and branched into the various facets you see today as his research demonstrated the problems in conventional medicine and the importance of prevention. One of his company's beliefs is that usual pet food processing (intense heat to cook and preserve) destroys way too much of the essential nutrition required for balanced, healthy diets. Wysong's processing and storage methods alone make them a leader in excellent quality holistic pet food products. Definitely worth reading their numerous articles and documentation on their pet food products.

Now I'm not saying that Science Diet or Royal Canin are not good products. They are simply NOT holistic brands. They are mid-grade quality cat foods while Whiskas and Friskies would be considered low grade quality.

One product I always recommend for people wanting to feed their pets better, but who may not be able to afford the high end holistic grade pet food, is by Nutro. Nutro has two levels of very decent cat food. One is more grocery store priced (but not grocery store level), and the other is a bit better, but again not overly expensive. Try Nutro's Maxx Cat or their higher end brand, Natural Choice. While not considered Holistic, these brands have NO by-product and very little grain. Nutro has some excellent dog food as well as a holistic brand.

There is one Canadian made holistic pet food that I am aware of. Orijen is made in Alberta with Canadian grown meat and fish, grains and produce. If Orijen was sold at my local Pet Valu, I'd be buying it!

Learning to read cat food labels can be difficult. But with a little effort, you can learn to feed your beloved cats the healthiest choices available. Your cats will thank you! And so will your pocketbook.

Shannon Hutcheson is a pedigreed cat breeder who believes that true to nature diet for all pets, including pedigreed cats is the best choice. You can read more articles by Shannon at the Cattery Index Magazine website, a cat breeder's community and resource site. Read the full version of this article at Cattery Index.

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Pet Policies: Pleading Your Case Successfully

by: Dan The Roommate Man

I was spending the evening with friends, a married couple who had just moved into an immaculate, upscale apartment community in North Dallas. Their two "children" were a good-natured cat and a very large, yet friendly dog who claimed the apartment's second bedroom for herself. "How did you get the leasing staff to agree to let you keep her here?" I asked, motioning to the dog. The couple exchanged a knowing look as one of them said, "Well ... I showed them a picture of her when she was a puppy."

That's certainly a creative solution to a common dilemma. Most apartment complexes who do allow pets have weight and size limits. But for some of us apartment-hunters, it seems to be Murphy's Law. You find the apartment of your dreams: spacious, great layout, all amenities included, reasonable rent, easy commute to work and local resources. There's one catch, however. You can't have pets. That includes not only dogs and cats, but also hamsters, gerbils, birds, anything that has wings or more than two legs. While such policies are probably fewer in number these days, landlords and leasing companies reserve the right to establish no-pet policies. Another friend who resides in a no-pet building in New York decided that she and her large dog would have their cake and eat it, too. Every time he needed to be walked, she smuggled him out through the freight elevator, out of the doorman's sight. Clever. Risky, but clever.

Must of us pet-owners have enough common sense to take Fido out on a regular basis or keep a clean litter box for Sylvester, but that doesn't stop pets from acting out when they're lonely or bored. And many of them exhibit a remarkable regression in good training habits in the event of a move, which can be a very stressful event for them. A new home means that your pet is being introduced to a completely different environment. The layout is different, the scents are different, even the water is different. So it's understandable both that a pet might react negatively under such stress, and why a savvy landlord might opt to forbid pets on his or her property. If you're moving into an apartment,
surely you feel better knowing that a dog with bad habits didn't live there before you arrived.

But for those of us who do have well-behaved pets, are these policies fair? Sure, we can look elsewhere, but today more than ever, people realize the positive impact that pets have on our
lives. They reduce stress and lower blood pressure, provide companionship, teach responsibility, cheer us up and can even help us meet other people. Rather than throw a towel over Fido and attempt to smuggle him into a no-pet property, you might want to consider pleading your case to your prospective landlord.

Most local branches of the Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals maintain a list of landlords and Realtors who help prospective renters and homeowners who own pets. The SPCA can help you locate specific properties that rent to pet-owners, and some branches even list specific apartments for rent (and whether they'll accept dogs and cats or just cats), along with a contact phone number for your convenience.

The Massachusetts Chapter of the SPCA recommends that prospective renters "market" themselves as responsible pet owners while they're apartment-hunting. What does that mean? For starters, it means avoiding any property that clearly states a "no-pet" policy. You're not going to change the policy or twist anyone's arm to make an exception. Your best bet is to open your local
newspaper or apartment guide, or online apartment guide, all of which will tell you whether or not pets are accepted on premises.

When you start making phone calls, call smaller properties -- those that probably have a landlord as opposed to a management company -- before the large ones. Your chances of success are better at smaller properties. Mention your pet only when asked. In other words, you don't want to start the conversation by asking, "Do you accept pets?" rather than stating "I'm calling to find out about the apartment for rent." It's not being dishonest; it's just knowing when to introduce the subject. And don't make your pet the focus of your conversation with your prospective landlord; you don't want to give the landlord the impression that he or she should be wary about you and your pet. If the landlord never asks you if you own a pet during your phone conversation, bring it up when you go see the unit and meet the landlord in person. Be completely honest (no puppy pictures allowed). The landlord will appreciate your honesty. Waiting until moving day to spring Fido on your landlord will get your relationship off to a very bad start, and it could end your relationship with Fido in a big hurry.

When you meet your prospective landlord in person, bring along "letters of reference" from your former landlord or apartment management company, as well as your veterinarian and fellow
neighbors, which state that you're a responsible pet owner. The San Francisco SPCA offers a "pet resume" service, a clever way of showing off your pet's attributes and good behavior. You may
consider creating your own while you're on the hunt for a new apartment. You can even offer to have your prospective landlord meet your faithful pet at your current residence, so that he or she can see in person how well-behaved your pet is, and how well you maintain your current property. And you may consider offering to put down a "pet deposit" if the landlord hasn't already established one. Last but not least, tell your landlord that you will pay for any damage incurred by your pet during your lease -- no questions asked, and put your promise in writing to assure your landlord of your word (make sure you also state in writing how such damages would be assessed, so that you're not
overcharged).

So before your landlord questions you about the moving beach towel with four legs who accompanied you outdoors this morning, state your case clearly to every prospective landlord with whom you communicate during your apartment search. Honesty now can save you innumerable headaches later.

Since 1989 Dan The Roommate Man has helped 1000's people find roommates. Need help? Contact him at 800-487-8050 or http://www.roommateexpress.com/

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Chicken Gizzards And its Role In Preventing Cystitis In Cats

Author: Sarah Smith

Cystitis is a very common problem encountered in the cat community. Typically there are signs of blood in the urine, straining to urinate or even worse, a blocked bladder. If your cat has ever had a blocked bladder you will know that this is a life-threatening emergency. You need to get your beloved puss up to your vet as quickly as you can.

In my practice this condition is very common. It is more serious for males than for females in that the male cats urine outflow pipe, the urethra, is very fine. It can easily become blocked by blood clots or crystalline sludge. Typically there is a dietary history of feeding dry cat food. One thing we always advise is to stop feeding the dry food. Some cats are addicted to eating dry food and refuse to eat anything but dry food. These cats do better if they swap to a prescription diet designed to be lower in the minerals that cause the crystals that cause the blockage. They also contain a urinary acidifier to reduce the chances of minerals forming together to create the crystals. Some cats will still have problems regardless of what they eat.

One of my interests as a veterinarian is to look at alternative ways of treating these common, often frustrating and frequently life threatening conditions.

In my reading around the subject of cystitis in cats and possible approaches I came across an interesting thought.

In traditional Chinese medicine the development of cystitis and crystals in the urine is considered a form of DAMPNESS. Dampness is correlated to the presence of food allergies or sensitivities and incomplete digestion. Many of the Chinese medicines used specifically for the treatment and dissolution of bladder stones or crystals contain the inner lining of chicken gizzards, also called ji nei jin.

Chicken gizzard lining has been used for over 2,000 years in China. Initially it was used in the treatment of diarrhoea. Later it developed a reputation for promoting digestion and astringing fluid discharge. The digestion promoting effects were prominent on both meat and grains. The astringing effect was found to actually break down kidney and urinary stones.

An active principle, named ventriculin was named as the component that gave chicken gizzards its medicinal effects.

In the wild situation one of the main food sources for cats is birds. Obviously not chickens but chickens are birds and all birds have gizzards. I have to say I'm not entirely sure about what goes into the moist style of cat food in a can but I do wonder how much chicken gizzards are incorporated. I doubt that there are any in the dry form of cat food and I often wonder just how digestible it really is anyway.

It makes sense to me to consider adding chicken gizzards to our cats dinners. The eating of birds by cats is greatly frowned upon in many circles. It is especially unacceptable in the National Park where I live.

Obtaining chicken gizzards is at best a challenge. It can however, be readily accessed in its medicinal form of ji nei jin.

Given that it is a natural component of the wild cat diet and its historical use in Chinese medicine as a treatment for cystitis, urinary stones and digestive disorders in humans it seems logical to consider supplementing cats diets with ji nei jin especially if they are prone to urinary tract problems.

Sarah Smith is a student with Success University. Her online studies are teaching her to create a healthy work and home life balance. She is learning the secrets of attracting success in ALL areas of her life. Sarah is a student with Success University. Learn to Create a Successful Home Business Collect your FREE E-book

http://www.successful-home-business-connection.com

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Cat Care - The Best, the Easiest, the Most Natural

By Madeleine Innocent
Raw Food Diet - Photo: © Alison007 (Flickr name) reproduced under creative commons

Caring for your cat is easy when you try to remember her origins. Being domesticated doesn't mean you should abandon how she would live in the wild. Cats have evolved in the wild over millennia. They have been domesticated for a mere trifle in comparison.

This means that their nutritional and emotional needs remain identical to those of their forebears. In attempting to provide the best cat care means looking at these needs. Lets look at their nutritional needs first.

Wild cats hunt on their own. They hunt small animals, sometimes up to about their own size, but mostly smaller than themselves. They rarely eat anything other than freshly killed meat. Contrasting this with a typical domestic cat's diet of dried pellets and you realise how off the mark commercial pet food is. Even if dried pellets were made with the best cuts of meat (which they aren't), the meat is still not fresh or raw. So, if you're trying to provide the most complete cat care, what should you feed your cat?

In my opinion, the best cat food is raw meat and bones. You can't completely duplicate a wild cat's diet, but you can come so close as to not compromise her health. Cat care starts with food as this is consumed daily. Something done daily has much more impact on our health than say something that only happens once a year.

When a cat eats her prey, she will eat all the meat, including the bones. Bones are the best source of calcium for a cat. And meat can only be properly digested when it is consumed with bones. After all, all carnivores eat meat with bones. Not only that, crunching up on bones is the best way of keeping her teeth and gums healthy, as long as they're not too big. No dried pellets can do that as well, despite the promises on the label.

Some think that giving a cat raw meat will trigger their hunting instinct. In my experience, it does the exact opposite. Because raw meat is nutrient dense, your cat will be satisfied and won't feel the need to supplement her diet as when fed a nutrient deficient diet.

Natural cat care also means providing your cat with her basic emotional and physical needs. Cats are intelligent and inquisitive. They need visual stimulation. This is best served by being outdoors, where nature provides an abundance of stimulation. If it's impossible or too dangerous to let your cat outside, do make sure she has access to safe stimulants, perhaps in the form of toys. Make sure you play with her to ensure she gets adequate exercise.

Sun is an important aspect of good cat care. Cats love the sun and it is essential to good health for all of us, not just your cat. Regular outdoor access will allow her to choose for herself. For confined cats, make sure there are times when you can open a window (safely) to allow the sun's rays in, unhindered by glass or plastic.

Easy cat care really means allowing your cat the freedom she desires. Confining cats indoors is going against good animal husbandry, I am also of the opinion that declawing cats is not only painfully inhumane, it deprives the cat of the natural joy of stretching. If you are considering declawing your cat, maybe you should also consider having a cat is not for you. Cats have already adapted a great deal to live with us. Putting them through an unnecessary, inhumane and painful operation is purely for your benefit, not your cats.

Cats provide us with an abundance affection, love and enjoyment. To provide even adequate cat care, we should at least do the same for them.

Madeleine Innocent has been a homoeopath, a natural health therapist, since 2000. She treats both people and animals and finds that when the diet of her patient is addressed, to one that is more in keeping with natural laws, at the same time as her treatment, enormous strides in the resultant good health are made. To underestimate a good, natural diet is to play Russian roulette with life.

For more information, click on this website:- http://www.naturallyhealthycats.com

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Tips For Spotting 5 Hot Cat Health Symptoms Needing Immediate Attention

No matter how much love and attention you give, felines experience cat illnesses. Recognizing cat health symptoms is challenging because, unlike their human caregiver, cats are rather stoic soldiers. They don't go around grumping when they have a belly ache.

Here are 5 Hot Cat Health Conditions that should alert you that your feline is fighting off sickness or injury.

1 - A Loss of Appetite

Train yourself to be a responsive and observant caregiver. Take notice when a cat has stopped eating or skipped a meal. If your cat experiences trouble eating, drinking or swallowing, then there is a cause for concern. It is a big RED, FLASHING LIGHT that something is wrong.

A change or lack of appetite can happen slowly or suddenly. Recognizing a change in appetite can be complicated if food is left out for cats to share in a multi-cat household. Her appetite may be off because she is struggling with a hairball or she ate a bad mouse. Far worse, she consumed a poisoned mouse and she is now poisoned, or she is in the early stages of a serious illness like kidney disease or fatty liver syndrome.

When your cat misses a couple of meals it is time for a visit to the vet. Do not wait to see if she is going to suddenly start eating. The sudden drop in food intake causes damage to the liver. This turns into a vicious cycle where the cat won't eat because her liver is sick and no food intake aggravates the liver damage.

2 - She Is Lethargic

A noticeable change in your cat's energy levels is also a good indicator that something is awry. Cats do sleep a lot, as much as 18-20 hours a day. However, if you notice she has zero interest in her beloved toys or catnip, she is quietly telling you something is wrong. She has pain or a fever and feels lousy.

3 - She's Losing Weight

She probably isn't eating well. When cats are sick they stop eating. When you lift your cat does she feel lighter than normal? Weight loss goes hand-in-hand with loss of appetite, but it can also be a sign of kidney disease, thyroid disease, diabetes and cancer. Weight loss is considered a serious sign of cat illness and should prompt an immediate trip to the veterinarian.

4 - She's Drinking A Lot of Water (Urinating A Lot Too!)

Does she fall to sleep while drinking at the water bowl? The good news is that she's still drinking. A increased need for water leads to an increase in urine. Obviously the two are linked together. After all, if she takes a lot of water in, it has got to go out sometime. Common causes of excessive thirst and urination include kidney disease, diabetes and elevated thyroid levels.

5 - Urination Is Painful or Interrupted

When a cat strains using the litter box, has accidents outside the box, squats for a long time, cries, or repositions herself over and over, you have spotted a problem indicating one or more cat illnesses. If you could view her urine under a microscope, odds are you would find traces of blood.
Male cats may lick at the tip of the penis or suddenly lose his appetite, vomit or become very vocal during urination. More than likely he is experiencing a complete blockage. A male cat that is straining during urination is having a fire-alarm emergency. Get him to the vet pronto.

When a female cat strains during urination it may not be a complete blockage because her urethra (the tube that drains the bladder to the outside) is wider than a male cat's and is less likely to clog. However, if she can't urinate that means she can't eliminate her body's liquid waste. A blocked cat becomes ill in 24 hours and can die in 72 hours -- don't wait for the weekend to pass!

Your veterinarian can unblock the urethra by inserting a catheter. This removes the obstruction allowing the urine to drain. It is most easily accomplished with early detection of the problem.
Urinary problems can be caused by a number of things, including bladder stones in the urethra, dietary causes, bacterial infections and the least understood problem, feline lower urinary tract disorder (FLUTD). This illness can be related to stress or a virus similar to a human's cold sore.
Some cat illness can be handled with gentle care and love at home, but other conditions are potentially life-threatening requiring immediate medical attention. As a feline caregiver, there is a certain amount of on-the-job training, but delaying a trip to the vet or waiting to see if things improve can be expensive or even cost your feline her life.

Your relationship with your cat is what helps you get through your personal trials and rough times. If you lost her because you failed to recognize a life-threatening, but treatable condition would you always regret your ignorance? The answer is obvious isn't it?

Bottom line: Don't be shy about calling your vet. Also, find a trusted resource to coach you through cat behavior or cat care questions and your chances for having a delightful, loving and long-lived feline partner become a whole lot better.

Kate Rieger has been owned by 15+ cats and is a champion of spay and release for her feral cat neighbors. She is partnered with the Kentucky S.N.I.P clinic and together through adoptions, education programs and spay/neuter efforts, they provide affordable solutions to reducing the pet overpopulation crisis in the Kentuckiana region. Never one to be short on opinion, she is on good behavior during her speaking engagements at local schools, organizations and on local and national radio talk shows. Drop by and pick up more free tips on using natural remedies to treat

cat health symptoms and naturalize your pet care today at http://www.Pet-Natural-Remedies.com

.

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Cat Furniture Buyers Guide

Cat furniture is a commodity that is known by many names. The most common include Cat Trees, Cat Condos, Kitty Condos, Cat Towers, Cat Climbers, Cat Scratchers and Cat Gyms. There are dozens more, but whatever term you use to describe cat furniture, the purpose is the same - to enable your cats to follow their instinctual desire to scratch without damaging your furniture, carpet, or other belongings, and also to give them a place of their own where they can exercise, play, and lounge.

There are many different types of cat furniture, made from such a variety of materials, that shopping for cat furniture can be confusing. Which materials are better? What design is the most stable? What size should I buy? Which style would my cat like? In this article, I'll try to help you answer these questions so you can make a more informed buying decision.

Why Do Cats Scratch?

In order to be completely informed when buying cat furniture, it's helpful to understand why it is that cats scratch in the first place. The primary reason for cats scratching furniture, carpets, woodwork, or other objects is to mark their territory for other cats (this is instinctual, so they will do this even if they are the only cat in the house). Additionally, the scratching helps remove the dead cells from the claw sheaths, and stretches their muscles and ligaments.

Feline behavior is consistent, whether it's a tiger in the wild, or a Maine Coon in a condominium. Scratching is the way they say to other felines in the area "Hey, I'm here, and this is my place". Scratching communicates this in two ways. The first is obvious - the scratches provide a very visual cue to other cats. Additionally, cats have scent glands in their paws, which leave pheromones that other cats can smell. For those of you that have experience with declawed cats (PLEASE don't declaw your cats!), that's the reason that they continue to scratch even after the claws have been removed.

Cat Furniture Coverings

In the past, most cat furniture was covered with carpet. This was a good choice, because it looks good, and it offers a material that cats obviously like to scratch. Some of the cat furniture manufactured today, especially hand-made models, still use carpet.

Most carpeting today contains fabric loops. Unfortunately, after thousands of scratches, cat claws can cut through these loops, resulting in unsightly and messy shredding. You've probably seen this yourself.

However, with today's technology, engineers have developed an acrylic material specifically for use in the cat furniture industry. This material, commonly referred to as fake or faux fur, has become increasingly popular. The main reason for this popularity is the fact that it does not contain loops, so it doesn't shred like carpet does, and therefore tends to last longer than carpet. The drawback is that since it doesn't offer the resistance that carpet does when they scratch it, cats don't like it for scratching as much as they like carpeting.

As a result, most cat furniture that offers faux fur also utilizes sisal rope as a covering. Generally, the vertical posts are wrapped with sisal rope, and the platforms and enclosures are covered with the acrylic fur.

Sisal rope is made from the Agave Sisalana plant, which is native to the Yucatan area of Mexico. Cats seem naturally drawn to this material, and unlike the acrylic fur, sisal rope offers the resistance that cats need to tune their claws and stretch their muscles.

Some cat furniture manufacturers that use carpet as a covering also offer sisal-wrapped posts, and in most (but not all) cases cats will scratch on the sisal instead of the carpet.

Structural Materials

Obviously the strength of the cat furniture is provided by the underlying structural materials. Vertical posts are usually wood 2 x 4's or heavy cardboard tubes, while horizontal surfaces are either plywood or pressboard. Manufacturers sometimes use cardboard for enclosure walls that do not bear any weight load.

It is a common misconception that wooden posts offer more structural integrity than cardboard tubes. In actuality, this is not necessarily true. Of course everybody knows that wood is stronger than cardboard when flat. However, when thick (at least 1/4") cardboard is made into a tube, and stood up vertically, it can hold an incredible amount of weight. The addition of a layer of sisal rope wrapped around it adds even more strength. One big advantage of cardboard posts over wooden ones is the weight. Shipping rates are based on weight, and shipping costs for a piece of cat furniture made with cardboard posts will be considerably less than a comparable model with wooden posts.

For platforms and weight-bearing walls in enclosures, manufacturers generally utilize either plywood or pressboard (also known as particle board). Pressboard is fiber pulp that is mixed with a chemical adhesive to create a smooth, uniform board. Plywood is manufactured by gluing thin layers of wood together, resulting in a board that is actually stronger than solid wood of the same thickness.

Generally, plywood is preferred to pressboard for cat furniture platforms for a number of reasons. During shipping, pressboard is much more likely to be damaged than plywood, especially if the carton is dropped on it's corner. Additionally, pressboard tends to crumble around the edges of screw or bolt holes if the hardware is tightened too much. Pressboard platforms are also more likely to break if enough weight or vertical force is put on it, as happens if a child sits on it.

Floor-to-Ceiling or Freestanding?

Cat furniture models will be either freestanding or floor-to-ceiling (commonly referred to as cat trees). Freestanding cat furniture is usually wide and bottom-heavy, to prevent it from tipping over when cats are at the top, or are very active. Floor-to-ceiling models use tension against the ceiling to provide their stability, and so do not require as wide a footprint as freestanding models. A properly assembled and installed floor-to-ceiling model cannot tip over. Usually, the tension against the ceiling is accomplished either through use of a spring-tension rod or a screw-based mechanism. This doesn't mean that the cat tree is screwed into the ceiling. Rather, the topmost post has a threaded bolt, usually topped with a soft protective cap that screws up against the ceiling. Generally, the screw-type cat trees are more stable, especially if you have active cats, and are also less likely to damage the ceiling surface.

So What Should You Buy?

The decision as to what type of furniture to buy for Tabby and Fritz should be determined by a combination of factors:

- Do you want a freestanding or floor-to-ceiling model? This is really more of a personal choice issue than anything else. If you have very active or very large cats, a floor to ceiling model will
probably offer more stability. If you have a multi-cat household, special attention should be paid to the weight rating of the furniture. It's also usually possible to secure a free-standing model
to a wall with common brackets and hardware available at any home center, in cases where rambunctious kitties cause it to rock or tip.

- Which covering? Carpet offers the advantage of more color choices, and if you're very particular about your cat condo fitting in with your décor, this might be your best choice. Faux fur models are generally made in neutral colors like beige or taupe, although there are some exceptions. In either case, having a sisal scratching surface should be a goal if at all possible.

- Structural materials. If you have a choice, choose plywood over pressboard. As for the posts, both cardboard and wood offer good stability. As stated earlier, models with wooden posts are heavier and may cost more to ship.

I hope that this article has been helpful in explaining the different types of cat furniture available, and the strengths and weaknesses of each type. In the end, don't forget that the safety and happiness of the feline members of your family should be the most important factors in choosing cat furniture for them.


Nick Bulka, is the owner of South Hill Trading Company, an online pet supply store specializing in cat furniture. You can visit his store at http://www.petsupplyguy.com or http://www.cat-scratch.net

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A Cat's New Year Resolutions

Author Unknown

• My human will never let me eat her pet hamster, and I am at peace with that.

I will not puff my entire body to twice its size for no reason after my human has finished watching a horror movie.

I will not slurp fish food from the surface of the aquarium.

I must not help myself to Q-tips, and I must certainly not proceed to stuff them down the sink's drain.

I will not eat large numbers of assorted bugs, then come home and puke them up so the humans can see that I'm getting plenty of roughage.

I will not lean way over to drink out of the tub, fall in, and then pelt right for the box of clumping cat litter. (It took FOREVER to get the stuff out of my fur.)

I will not stand on the bathroom counter, stare down the hall, and growl at NOTHING after my human has finished watching The X-Files.

I will not fish out my human's partial plate from the glass so that the dog can "wear" it and pretend to be my human. (It is somewhat unnerving to wake up, roll over in bed, and see the dog grinning at you with your own teeth.)

I will not use the bathtub to store live mice for late-night snacks.

I will not drag dirty socks up from the basement in the middle of the night, deposit them on the bed and yell at the top of my lungs (Burmese LOUD yowling) so that my human can admire my "kill."

I will not perch on my human's chest in the middle of the night and stare into her eyes until she wakes up.

We will not play Herd of Thundering Wildebeests Stampeding Across the Plains of the Serengeti over any human's bed while they're trying to sleep.

Screaming at the can of food will not make it open itself.

I cannot leap through closed windows to catch birds outside. If I forget this and bonk my head on the window and fall behind the couch in my attempt, I will not get up and do the same thing again.

I will not assume the patio door is open when I race outside to chase leaves.

I will not back up off the front porch and fall into the bushes just as my human is explaining to his girlfriend how graceful I am.

I will not complain that my bottom is wet and that I am thirsty after sitting in my water bowl.

I will not intrude on my human's candle-lit bubble bath and singe my bottom.

I will not stick my paw into any container to see if there is something in it. If I do, I will not hiss and scratch when my human has to shave me to get the rubber cement out of my fur.

If I bite the cactus, it will bite back.

It is not a good idea to try to lap up the powdered creamer before it dissolves in boiling coffee.

When I am chasing my tail and catch my back leg instead, I will not bite down on my foot. This hurts, and my scream scares my human.

When it rains, it will be raining on all sides of the house. It is not necessary to check every door.

Birds do not come from the bird feeder. I will not knock it down and try to open it up to get the birds out.

I will not stuff my rather large self into the rather small bird feeder (with my tail hanging out one side) and expect the birds to just fly in.

I will not teach the parrot to meow in a loud and raucous manner.

The dog can see me coming when I stalk her. She can see me and will move out of the way when I pounce, letting me smash into floors and walls. That does not mean I should take it as a personal insult when my humans sit there and laugh.

Yes, there are still two very large dogs in the backyard. There have been for several years. I don't have to act as if I've just discovered the Demon Horror of the Universe each time one of them appears in my window.

I will not play "dead cat on the stairs" while people are trying to bring in groceries or laundry, or else one of these days, it will really come true.

When the humans play darts, I will not leap into the air and attempt to catch them.

I will not swat my human's head repeatedly when she's on the family room floor trying to do sit ups.

When my human is typing at the computer, her forearms are *not* a hammock.

Computer and TV screens do not exist to backlight my lovely tail.

I am a walking static generator. My human doesn't need my help installing a new board in her computer.

I will not bring the city police to the front door by stepping on the speaker phone button and then the automatic 911 dial button.

I will not speed dial the overseas numbers.

I will not walk on the keyboard when my human is writing important emiognaioerp ga3qi4 taija3tgv aa35 a.

Any critter that lives in the house (hamsters), stay in the house and any wild critters (frogs and earthworms) stay outside. I am not allowed to set the hamster free in exchange for finding a frog to put in the fish tank.

I will not stalk the deer in the apple orchard next door. They have sharp hooves and could hurt me if they weren't laughing so hard.

I will not watch the guinea pig constantly as the guinea pig likes to sleep once in a while.

The goldfish likes living in water and should be allowed to remain in its bowl.

I will not put a live mole in my food bowl and expect it to stay there until I get hungry.

I will not eat spider plants and hallucinate behind the toilet.

I will not drag the magnets (and the papers they are holding up) off of the refrigerator and then bat them underneath it so that they adhere to the underside.

I will learn to relax at the vet's office so they will start writing things in my records like "Good Kitty" and "Sweet Kitty" instead of the stuff that's there now like "MEAN!!" "BITER!!!" and "GET HELP!!!!!"

I will not be miffed at my human all day and then kiss her on the nose at 2:00 a.m. to tell her that she is forgiven and can now pet me.

I will not scratch the children of lawyers, no matter how much they chase me or how hard they pull my tail.

If I MUST claw my human, I will not do it in such a fashion that the scars resemble a botched suicide attempt.

If I must give a present to my human's overnight guests, my toy mouse is much more socially acceptable than a big live cockroach, even if it isn't as tasty.

I will not soak my catnip toy in the water bowl to make tea. I will not get high and sit there drinking my tea and kneading the floor afterwards. I will not then get delusions of grandeur and make tea in the toilet bowl or the tub. And I will not try to make tea with used socks, dirty panties or hair scrunches when my humans take the catnip toy away from me.

A warm pepperoni pizza is not a good place for a nap.

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Why Does My Cat Pee Everywhere?

By Ian White

Whether your cat is old or young, male or female, anxious or mellow, he or she can get the idea that peeing anywhere but the litterbox is a good thing. Many frustrated humans in the past and present have tried nearly everything to figure out why the cat does this - and, of course, to solve the problem.

Here are the first things that you should do when your cat insists on stinking up your house. You'll have to be patient while you work your way through this list, but soon your kitty will be back to doing his or her business in an appropriate place.

• Your cat needs a full health checkup. In many cases, cats pee right in front of you when they're sick. A urinary tract infection (UTI) is one of the most common health problems, which your vet can treat. Even if that's not what's wrong with your kitty, your vet can track down, and solve, the problem.

• Cats who are older or who have health problems (joint pains, for example), can't get in and out of the litterbox like they could when they were younger. Make the litterbox more accessible so that your kitty can get in and out.
• The litterbox itself might be a problem. If you have more than one cat, you might need to put out additional litterboxes. The type of litter and how much of it you use can be problems. You should also change the cat litter and thoroughly scrub the litterbox. The plastic tends to absorb urine smells, which can turn off housecats.

• Sometimes cats will act out by peeing all over your favorite things. This can be a sign that they're unhappy about something. Try giving your cat more (positive) attention. Extra playtime with his favorite toy can cure the behavioral issue. You can also ask your vet about a product that will help soothe your kitty: Feliway is one example.
• Tomcats often spray anything that they wish to mark as their own territory. Sterilization can improve this problem.
• Elderly kitties can suffer from feline dementia. They honestly don't realize that they're doing something wrong when they pee all over your clean laundry. Buy housebreaking pads - the disposable kind that people use with puppies - and put them down where your kitty pees the most often. This won't convince her to use the litterbox, but cleanup will be much easier compared to what you're doing now.

You should do a few things when your kitty decides to mark something in your house.

• Never hit the cat or rub her nose in the mess. Cats aren't like human children: they don't understand that what they do is wrong. You can deter behavior as the cat is doing it, but trying to teach the cat after the fact doesn't work very well. Instead of scolding kitty afterward, catch her in the act and spritz her with tap water from a spray bottle.
• Completely clean the marked territory. Even if you can't smell the cat pee, the cat will. That's her sign to continue peeing there. Visit the pet store for a product that removes all of the pet odors.
• Give your cat plenty of positive attention. Despite the stereotypes that surround felines, cats do bond with their humans. They want our attention and will go to great lengths to get it from us.

Don't worry: you'll track down and solve the problem soon enough. In the meantime, be as patient as possible. Your solution will come and you can resume the carefree relationship

Copyright © 2008, Ian White housesitting.com

Author Ian White is founder of housecarers Housesitting directory

Cats are happier in their own environment. Pet friendly alternative to catteries or cat boarding.

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Maintaining Cat Urinary Tract Health

By Tess Thompson

Feline urinary infection occurs much more frequently than cat owners would like to believe. Most of the times, the condition is idiopathic in nature, meaning that the infection has no known cause. And therefore symptoms like urinating out of the litter pan are usually assigned to behavioral causes like stress.

In fact, urinary tract infection in cats is more likely to be physiological in nature. It is part of a number of urinary problems including obstruction in the urinary passage and bladder inflammation commonly known as Feline Lower Urinary Tract Disease. It can be extremely painful to the cat as it strains to urinate but is unable to. Cat owners can be of great help if they know the reasons behind the condition and make sure that they follow some basic rules of caring for the pet.

To understand your pet better, you must understand that there is a natural reason why cats do not consume a lot of water. The evolution factor plays an important role in how animals meet their needs for maintaining life. Cats originated in desert areas and derived most of their requirement of water from food. The prey they hunted gave them enough water to sustain life. And this is the manner in which cats developed a natural aversion to drinking water separately on their own. Lack of water intake is, therefore, one of the major reasons behind the increased incidence of feline urinary tract infection.

While specific treatment depends upon the lab reports of urinalysis and other imaging investigations, you can try to prevent the condition by keeping the health of your cat’s urinary tract in proper condition.

Water is of utmost importance.

• Mix extra water if you are feeding your cat with dry cat food. You may want to add other fluids like chicken froth.
• Keep more water bowls around the house. Use bigger water bowls so that the cat’s whiskers do not touch the sides.
• If you can, try a free flowing water drinking fountain. Cats find this attractive and curiosity may encourage them to drink water.
• Wash water bowls with clean water daily. If you are using detergents make sure there is no residue as the chemical in it can be harmful.
• Avoid feeding foods that have high magnesium content like pork, beef, heart and oily fish.
• Prefer natural foods over prescription diets. Consult your veterinarian as to what you should feed so that the urine that is produced has the correct pH level.
• Add a tablespoon of vinegar to water daily. Vinegar will keep the urine pH slightly acidic and prevent formation of bladder stones, which often lead to urinary infections.
  
  
  

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The Dangers of Mulch!

Cocoa mulch is amazing for your plants and smells fantastic -- but be sure to keep your pets away!

"CLEVELAND -- Pet experts say a cocoa mulch can pose a serious health risk to pets. This type of mulch is made of the husks of the cocoa bean.
Local landscapers said it has become popular in northeast Ohio recently because of its aroma. But that aroma can also reportedly attract dogs and cats.

If a pet consumes a large amount of mulch it can cause them serious digestive problems, according to the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, or ASPCA."


Read the article >>

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The Wildlife Basics to Cat Health

By Bruce Maul

The endless cat and mouse chase has been immortalized in literature countless times. And what makes this prey and predator relationship tick also finds relevance in the diet and nutrition of felines. Ever heard about cats chasing grains, or fruits and vegetables? Felines are carnivorous creatures that find nourishment over a few pounds of meat protein daily and a steady supply of water to supplement a dry diet. Moreover, nature bestowed felines with shorter digestive tracts that would not be able to handle carbohydrate enriched foods as well as plant fibers efficiently. Thus, an omnivore diet would only render your pet obese or perhaps devoid them of the nutrients vital to cat health and this sets the stage for serious pet health problems. Likewise, feeding your pet with meat by-products often laden with preservatives and other inorganic substances does not help to this end either.

Replicating feline diet in the wild becomes the likely key to optimal cat health. Consequently, cats require natural forms of medication, as much as they need animal protein. Know that most pet illnesses are typically food based, borne of nutritional deficiencies that manifest in the form of allergies or instances of hormonal imbalance. Most likely, the overuse of antibiotics and multiple vaccines in the name of disease treatment induces more harm than healing and can breakdown your pets immune defenses. In matters of cat healthcare and disease prevention, your pet would truly achieve sustained healing from a treatment of herbal extracts, or perhaps a pet herbal supplement formula.

While veterinary medicine is known for its cunning ability to swiftly heal symptoms, the chemical substances put forth in its manufacture can also compromise cat health through the undue impairment of pet immune defenses that makes them susceptible to the antigens of chronic infections. The administration of a pet herbal supplement formula will not damage the functions of vital antibodies nor produce side effects detrimental to cat health.

Pet health products, and specifically, herbal supplement products, are manufactured from a safe and therapeutic blend of herbal and homeopathic ingredients intended to mildly clear the symptoms of an infection while probing deeper into the disease in order to correct an imbalance or systemic disorder that may actually be causing the onset of an infection. Furthermore, pet herbal remedies are concocted with tonic herbs to restore wellness and vitality in your pet.

Do not risk your cats health and wellness with the daily feeding of processed pet food as well as in the administration of inorganic substances for disease treatment. Time to get back to the wildlife basics of nutrition and healing for your pet, meat protein for his feed and an herbal supplement formula to treat the symptoms of diseases. This will not only extend the life of your pet cat, but also sustain its vigor during the geriatric stage.

Bruce Maul is a partner in Goldf Flax Seed, Inc. which provides only top quality Flax Seed, Herbal Remedies and other health related products. Learn more about Herbal Remedies by visiting http://www.myherbalremedystore.com

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Making the Big Decision - Euthanasia

Copyright © 2006-2008 Gary Kurz

As an author of books in the pet loss genre, I often receive e-mail where I am asked "Do you think that I did the right thing by putting my best friend down?" The question is always qualified by a very heart-wrenching and moving story about the rapidly declining health of the family pet, which resulted in making the "big decision".

Almost without exception, the inquirer expresses a deep sense of guilt from having made that choice, which, in all probability, is the real reason for their writing to me...to help them with that guilt. Essentially, I am being asked to approve of a decision made during a period of great duress without much background information. It is a task that I do not relish, but one that I cannot and will not avoid.

Making such a decision is one of the most difficult things a person who loves animals will ever have to do. Our pets are perpetual children to us: children, because they depend upon us for all of their needs (food, shelter, medical attention, etc.); and, perpetual, because they never grow up and leave the nest.

They do not marry. They do not go to college. They remain utterly dependent upon us throughout their lives. When our children leave home, we still love them and provide help when they ask for it, but generally they have their own lives to live and we no longer make decisions for them. But for our furry children, the decision-making responsibilities permanently fall to us.

Is it any wonder then, that when we have had to prematurely hasten their passing, we blame ourselves or feel guilt? After all, they depended upon us and somehow we let them down. Somehow we should have had control and been able to prevent their illness or injury.

The truth is, however, we have no control over such things. We cannot know when illness will strike. We cannot know when an animal will dig a hole under the fence and run into the street. We can take all the necessary safety precautions, feed them the best food, get them regular check-ups, but we cannot foresee the future. Accordingly, from a reality standpoint, there is no basis for feeling guilty when unexpected circumstances force us to decide to help our best friend pass on.

From a perceptional standpoint, when someone is so broken that they feel compelled to seek my help, pouring out their most intimate emotions to a complete stranger, this suggests to me that they could never have failed their best friend by making a poor decision. It just is not in them to have not been vigilant and caring. It is my perception that they could have done nothing to deserve the guilt they torture themselves with.

It has been my experience rather, that such people possess great love and devotion for their pets. Invariably, they will have done anything within their power to extend the life of their best friend if it were at all possible to do so.

Indeed, I can attest that some who have contacted me have spent literally tens of thousands of dollars on surgery and other healthcare efforts, traveled great distances to meet with specialists, or sat up night after night all night long trying to provide comfort and care. There can be little doubt but that people who love their pets, people like you and me, will exhaust every possibility to help their animals.

Sadly, despite all of our selfless effort and expense, success sometimes is not realized and our best friend continues to deteriorate, often in great pain. We are forced to make that dreaded big decision, whether or not to let our best friend go.

It is after that decision has been made and our best friend is gone, that guilt comes, accompanied by its infamous associate, doubt. Together they rob us of our confidence and turn our precious memories into a source of pain. We beat ourselves up in our hearts and minds and are plagued by the haunting questions:

"Did I do the right thing"?

"Should I have waited longer"?

"Why am I feeling all this guilt"?

"What if I had done this or that"?

Again, these questions are hard to answer. If you were to ask for my help in validating your decision, I could not presumptuously determine that putting your best friend down was the right thing to do. Neither could I suggest that it was the wrong thing to do. I just cannot know.

Similarly, I do not know if the decision was made too soon, too late or whether it should have been made at all. At best, my thoughts in those areas would be nothing more than a subjective guess, based upon very limited information and my own values and level of sensitivity. It would be unfair to hold everyone to my own personal standard and to respond to them based upon that alone.

Instead, I would encourage you to remember how things were at that moment in time when you bore the responsibility of making that big decision for your family pet. Only you can know if it was the right and timely thing to do. My advice to you is to simply "trust the moment". By that I mean, that you should not second-guess now, the decision that you made then. Second-guessing will only lead to a feeling of insecurity, which will eventually manifest itself as guilt.

It is imperative to trust that at that moment, when you were forced to make that undesirable, big decision, you did so from a position of love. You didn't want to do it. It horrified you to have to decide. Nevertheless, you stepped up and assumed your responsibility. You selflessly decided, at that moment, that your best friend was suffering, that there was nothing you or anyone else could do about it, except make that decision.

Now, long after the fact, divorced from the emotion and pressure of that moment, you are allowing yourself to dissect every thought and circumstance. Now, with the luxury of time, you are starting to re-think the facts and question yourself, playing the "what if" game.

Today, it isn't as clear as it was then. You really don't know if you did the right thing. Take heart, it is human nature to doubt. We are imperfect and fickle creatures. But that does not make it right to pull a load of guilt upon ourselves, and that does not change the reality of the moment when you had to make that big decision.

Don't let your feelings of grief give birth to guilt. Remember the moment. Remember that at that moment you wanted nothing more than to help the one you so dearly loved. You would have done anything, paid any amount, performed any feat to prolong their life, but it was just not to be.

The doctor's prognosis was grim. There would be much suffering and pain. The recommendation was to bring them relief, to help them pass on. Under extreme duress and emotional strain, through tears of love, you weighed all the facts, reached down deep inside yourself, put aside your own selfish desire to have your pet hang on, and did what you thought best for them at that moment.

At that moment, your love made the selfless decision that rationale and logic now question. There was no selfishness then, but rather a somber consideration of the facts, and a decision to do something that you really did not want to do. But you did it, because someone needed for you to be strong for them.

You put self aside and found strength you did not know that you had. Don't let go of that moment. Hold on to it. Trust it. Trust that you were right and that you did what was needed. Trust that your love ruled over your selfishness and know that where your love prevailed, there is no room for guilt or doubt. Grief and sadness are important validations of your love, but do not cheat that process with doubt and guilt. It has no place.

About The Author:

Gary Kurz, helps those grieving the loss of a pet to understand the Biblical evidence that proves they live on. His most popular book, "Cold Noses at the Pearly Gates" delivers hope and comfort to the reader in a very gentle, yet convincing way. Visit at http://www.coldnosesbook.com for more information, tips and gifts or write to Gary at petgate@aol.com

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